Ultimate Guide to Counter-Style Yakitori Dining at “Toriguchi” in Tokyo
About 3 min read
When it comes to yakitori, many people think of it as a classic dish served at casual izakaya-style pubs. However, there is also a style known as counter-style yakitori, where you can enjoy carefully selected cuts of premium chicken served as a course meal. Sharing yakitori in a lively group setting is certainly enjoyable, but savoring each skewer in a calm counter setting is a special kind of luxury.
In this article, we visited the popular Gotanda restaurant “Toriguchi” in Tokyo to explore the pleasures of counter-style yakitori.
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【Advised by】TORIGUCHI
『専門店で聞いた本当においしい食べ方』 Goodie-Foodie編集部 著／彩図社 刊（発売中）
『専門店で聞いた本当においしい食べ方』 Goodie-Foodie編集部 著／彩図社 刊（発売中）
『専門店で聞いた本当においしい食べ方』 Goodie-Foodie編集部 著／彩図社 刊（発売中）
『専門店で聞いた本当においしい食べ方』 Goodie-Foodie編集部 著／彩図社 刊（発売中）
Table of Contents
Enjoy the Atmosphere at the Counter Seats
The yakitori restaurant “Toriguchi” we visited this time is the only yakitori specialty shop operated by the “Soregashi” group, which runs several restaurants and bars in Tokyo. They primarily offer omakase-style courses, with three options: a 7-skewer course, a 9-skewer course, and the premium *Goku course* that includes a rice dish.
The chicken used is “Shingendori” from Yamanashi Prefecture. One of the real pleasures of counter-style yakitori is watching the chef skillfully grill each skewer right in front of you.
Appetizers
We ordered the “Goku Course,” which includes seven skewers plus the restaurant’s signature “Egg and Karasumi,” a rice dish, and dessert. If you have any allergies or foods you dislike, be sure to notify the staff in advance.
The meal begins with three types of appetizers: pickled turnip and cucumber, julienned daikon, and seared Omi chicken (the brand may vary depending on availability).
Seven Skewers and a Special Dish
From here, the seven main skewers begin.
The skewers are seasoned with either salt or sauce, depending on which complements the cut best. At this restaurant, sauce-seasoned skewers are placed on the right side of the plate and salt-seasoned ones on the left.
First is *kashiwa* made from chicken thigh (sauce). It has a good balance of fat and firmness, offering rich, juicy chicken flavor.
Next is *tsukune* (salt). The outside is grilled to a fragrant crisp, and a bite reveals hot, juicy meat inside. While tsukune is often served with sauce, enjoying it with salt allows you to savor the pure, deep flavor of the chicken.
The next skewer is *saezuri*, referring to the chicken windpipe (sauce). It has a unique, pleasantly crunchy texture.
Here is the chicken heart (salt). It has a springy bite, and the salt seasoning enhances its natural flavor.
The vegetable skewer is made with seasonal produce. This time, it’s summer zucchini. The exterior is well grilled while maintaining a juicy, fresh interior.
After five skewers, the restaurant’s signature dish “Karasumi and Egg” is served. A poached egg topped with grated karasumi comes with toast on the side.
To enjoy it, first mix the poached egg with the karasumi thoroughly. Then spread it generously on the toast. The rich aroma of karasumi fills your nose and spreads across your palate—an indulgent, luxurious bite!
Next is liver (sauce). Its smooth, creamy texture is irresistible.
The final skewer is chicken wing (salt). The bone is removed and small cuts are made so it’s easy to eat.
If you’d like to order additional skewers before the last one is served, you can do so for 350–450 yen per skewer. There are many cuts not included in the course, so feel free to order anything that catches your eye. Just keep in mind that seating is limited to about 2 hours, so don’t overorder.
Two condiments—sansho pepper and chili powder—are available on the table. Add a touch if you’d like to adjust the flavor.
After finishing a skewer, place it in the designated holder on the table rather than leaving it on your plate.
Pair with Natural Wine
Along with yakitori and small dishes, you’ll want to enjoy some drinks as well.
Torikuchi offers a wide selection of natural wines chosen by the staff. If you tell them your preferences or mood, they will suggest and pour wines pairing-style.
In addition to wine, they also offer beer, sake, and other beverages.
Finishing Rice Dish
The meal ends with a rice dish. You can choose from oyakodon, minced chicken rice bowl, chilled tantan noodles, or a limited-quantity eel rice bowl.
On this day, we had the minced chicken bowl topped with a quail egg yolk. The small bowl size is perfect for the end of the meal and lets you enjoy chicken to the very last bite.
Dessert
Don’t forget dessert. You can choose between seasonal shaved ice or a monaka ice cream sandwich.
The seasonal shaved ice features soft, fluffy ice topped with rich melon syrup and diced mango—perfect for refreshing your palate after the meal.
Once the course begins, immerse yourself in the yakitori served right before you. There are no strict rules—just relax, enjoy, and savor the meal.
From high-end establishments to more casual spots, counter-style yakitori offers many forms of enjoyment. Step into the world of counter yakitori and find a favorite place of your own!
It is a yakitori specialty restaurant that opened in 2018. The menu consists of only three omakase courses: a 7-skewer course, a 9-skewer course, and the premium Goku Course, which includes a rice dish. Reservations can be made online or by phone, and the restaurant accepts cashless payments only.
*The information is based on the time of reporting or creation, and may differ from the current situation.
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